Just after graduating from high school I left with a "delegation" of about 40 high school student "ambassadors" from Utah to visit the Soviet Union. It is one of my most precious memories, an experience I'll never be able to duplicate. I was there within just a couple of years of communism falling.
We flew from the U.S. to Finland and spent about 48 hours in Helsinki. It was mid-June and gorgeous—working up to summer solstice and therefore never getting dark at night...one of the best parts. The food was an experience, but Helsinki itself was everything I expected a European city to be. It was large, fast, clean, beautiful. It was like a dream.
Culture shock began the moment we boarded the rickety museum piece of a train that would take us from Finland into the USSR. We went first to Leningrad. It was lovely in an exotic, ancient sort of way, but it was so different from Finland. For all its being a world superpower, the USSR was
not a first-world country. That gobsmacked me. Propaganda was still everywhere—six stories high, painted on buildings in primary colors—statues of Lenin everywhere, but the people lived in run-down little apartments with no appliances or just a tiny (dormitory-sized) fridge and a single hotplate. No washers and dryers, no dishwashers. Phones in the hallways outside the apartments, the whole floor shared. Laundry always hanging out on balconies. Everything—streets, building facades—was filthy. There was not hot water all day even in the hotels; at check in we were handed a schedule of when there would be hot water. In one hotel, they turned off the electricity at 9:00 pm. Water was not safe to drink—it was cloudy yellow. I brushed my teeth with Pepsi for three weeks.
For the first few days I was in sort of a daze: we fear these poor creatures? These are the archenemies of the United States of America? These people who have only one brand of car to buy, whose trains are falling apart, who still fly from city to city in WWII propeller planes? The second night in Leningrad we decided sleep was for sissies and we were only going to be in the USSR once. We hailed a cab and see the city. Our cab driver was an M.D., a surgeon, who had to moonlight driving a cab because being a doctor didn't pay the bills. That was the biggest eye opener of all about what it was like to live under communism.
We visited Yalta, Simferopl, Moscow. I swam in the Black Sea and laid on the black beaches. I ate lots of amazing ice cream, because I was such a picky eater I struggled with the borscht and other strange foods. I did eventually acclimate to dark rye bread, and I gave up the Pepsi at mealtime for tea because I got so sick of the sweet. The weather was so hot during the day; but when the sun began to go down it was like a dream, to prowl the streets of the USSR with 39 other kids my age, like we owned the joint. We saw Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral, Lenin's tomb and waxy Lenin himself. He just looked like a Madame Tussaud wax figure, but everyone swore it was the real corpse. Of course. Perfectly preserved after 53 years. (It was like a refrigerator in there, that's for sure; it was the only time during the whole trip that I was even remotely cool, and I was freezing.)
We saw the Moscow folk ballet perform. I cried through the entire thing—the folk music, the dance—it was just so gorgeous. We saw the Bolshoi Ballet perform Giselle. (Wish I'd understood the story ahead of time, I was
so not following along.) And one night we went to the Moscow circus. This is probably my favorite story of my entire life to tell. I was exhausted—we all were, burning the candle at both ends by being tourists all day long with our officially assigned tour guides and Utah chaperones, and then catching cabs and buses all night long on our own. I did doze off during the circus, at least I assume I did. When I woke up I was in the middle of the ring, holding up a constrictor snake that was way too heavy for me. As soon as I came to, my arms fell to my sides with the heavy. (Circus people were on either side of me to catch the snake.) I had been hypnotized in Russian! I have no memory of the hypnosis, only of waking up; but I have 70 American witnesses that told me what happened. I still geek out about it.